Nunta din Moldova

Buna ziua din Balti!!  Yes, it's been a long dry spell since my last blog!  But this posting deserves its own space.  I had the privilege of being invited to a Moldovan wedding celebration on July 26.  And what a celebration it was!

Our very own Adil, a fellow PCV from the business development sector, met and fell in love with Cristina, a beautiful Moldovan woman in his work site Falesti.  She works in a nearby department and speaks some English so they hit it off - lucky Adil!

The actual marriage was on the previous Thursday usually attended by close family and friends held in the orthodox church.  The big party for the masses took place on Saturday starting at 7 PM and was designated to last until 3:00 AM, and that was for the first phase of the celebration.  This is a common practice; it's not surprising if guests stay for 1-2 days partying!

As in many cultures, Moldovan weddings are packed with traditions and rituals.  Contemporary western customs are also included, like the removal of the bride's garter and tossing it to a handful of bachelors.  A Moldovan wedding is one of the most expensive investments for a family - couples can save for this one event for years.  Sometimes they even borrow money from banks to cover the costs of the gala affair.  Wedding gown shops, wedding halls, banquet restaurants, and photographers conduct lucrative businesses all focused on that one life-altering event - the wedding.

Greeting guests with wine and colaci

Fortunately, another tradition for the newlyweds is presenting them with monetary gifts.  Cash seems to be the most acceptable gift form, collected through a table-by-table visitation process.  The couple is accompanied by their năşi, a married couple who serves as spiritual counselors for the husband and wife during their marriage, similar to godparents.  Adil and Cristina's năşi were her sister and brother-in-law.  They visit with all the guests, who toast the couple's good fortune.  The guests in turn offer money along with their blessings, oftentimes declaring the amount of money and visibly depositing it into a collection bowl.  We provided monetary gifts, of course, but contained within cards as the American practice is more discreet (and perhaps less embarrassing).  

Collecting gifts of money

Singer of Romanian songs

Colorful dancers

Group dancing is a big custom at these events, and went on before food was served, during, and after.  A dance/song troupe of Moldovans performed folk-type songs as well as more popular fare (the latter on a playlist)  They entertained throughout the entire time (8 hours) without much of a break.  They were fabulous!  Singing Romanian/Moldovan songs and dancing folk dances separately and with the guests - they tirelessly kept the guests participating in activity after activity.  The locals all enjoy dancing the "hora", circle dances where specific dance steps didn't need to be followed just as long as you could keep up with the circle.  And you didn't need a partner!  Everyone was having fun but the ulterior motive for the energetic dancing??  I claim it's because the guests have to keep eating the mountains of food brought to the tables.  Round 1 of eating, round 1 of dancing - round 2 of eating, round 2 of dancing, and so on.  It was an effective strategy!

Now let's talk about the food --- there must have been at least 20 separate courses (meaning dishes).  In other words, food was in huge abundance, also traditional in a wedding feast.  It's not a fit feast unless piles of food are left on the table!  What sorts of dishes were served?  There were some familiar dishes that are found at every masa (party) like racitori, sarmale, and pan-fried battered chicken.  However, we did have some other dishes that were new to me - smoked salmon, shrimp(!), sauteed mushrooms wrapped in a pasta noodle sac, little colored jello squares in yogurt, to name a few.  Everything was delicious - this restaurant was top-notch!  Drinks were also ample - champagne, red and white wine, cognac from Tiraspol (Transnistria), sodas and mineral water.  Not only do the host families toast the happy couple and the invited guests (meaning those toasted are expected to drink), but the guests also go around to other tables and toast one another.  Normally cognac is drunk in one gulp from a shot glass (wine sometimes too from a wine glass), and then the glass is refilled right away.

Heading skyward

Getting ready to launch

A beautiful modern custom is to send small hot air lanterns floating into the sky.  Altogether four such lanterns were staged, two red and two white heart-shaped.  Floating into the night sky, they were wondrous to behold!

Leah, Adil, Cristina, Paden

Carl and Beni

Nasi and their children, maid of honor along with us

    

The Americans with Cristina

Us lucky guests from Peace Corps included Max, Kate, Carl, Beni, Paden, Leah, Arun, and Sydney, plus me.   Janet, our country director was also included, and Tim from USAID.  Paden was the best man and Beni was the photographer but she took a break now and then.  

  

Peace Corps gals with Cristina

Cristina wins!

 Colaci is a circular braided bread loaf which is offered at many Moldovan celebrations and at religious services.  Guests are offered chunks of this bread and wine when they first enter the reception and throughout the banquet.  Colaci is given to the couple and they each take one end and try to tear it into two parts.  Whoever gets the larger part, connotes the dominant one in the partnership, or so the tale goes.







Another wonderful custom acknowledges that the couple is starting their own household.  Towards the end of the party, Adil and Cristina sat on a chair and her relatives and close friends bestowed various gifts by opening them up and draping them on the happy couple.  These included towels, linens, blankets, and other domestic wares which surrounded them.  Both of them were showing signs of fatigue by this time - can't blame them at all!  My own feet were killing me!


We finally took our departure around 3:00 AM, summoning a taxi to drive us back to Balti where we arrived home at 4.  What an absolutely splendid time was had by all!  The host families and the guests had welcomed us with open arms, shared their bounty, danced and laughed with us, and we felt truly at home.


Next I hope to go to a baby christening ....

Love to all my family and friends....  Barbara